The Collection of André Leon Talley to Sell at Christie’s

Christie’s New York will present the Collection of André Leon Talley in a timed online auction through February 16, 2023. This 343-lot sale includes dazzling– and often dramatic– functional, decorative, personal, and eclectic items owned by André Leon Talley. He was best known as Vogue‘s first Black American editor-at-large from 1998 to 2013. He was also an activist, a fashion icon, an award-winning stylist, and a celebrated author who had a legendary eye. Here are some extraordinary, category-spanning highlights from Talley’s collection. 

The first André Leon Talley highlight in this online sale is lot #134, a man’s pale pink crocodile coat. It is estimated at USD 5,000 to $8,000 and was made by Prada around 2000. This belted, knee-length garment is lined and detailed with buttons, belt D rings, and decorative straps on the cuffs. Outerwear made from crocodile must have been a favorite of Talley, as eight somewhat similar coats in varying hues, including black, green, navy, and red, are also on offer in this auction.

André Leon Talley was also a connoisseur of elite handbags and totes. Lot #352, an Hermès rouge calf box leather Birkin 60 bag, is the standout example in this category. It is estimated at $4,000 to $6,000. The bag was made in 1993 and is accented with gold hardware. It is embossed with the initials “ALT” in gold beneath the front flap. This handsome tote includes a lock, keys, clochette, and dust bag and is one of two Hermès Birkin bags available in the sale. 

Birkin bags are among the most coveted of all designer purses and are favorites of celebrities, socialites, and influencers. Rare, unique, or jewel-encrusted versions trade hands in the high six figure range. They are named after actress Jane Birkin. In 1984, she was looking for an upscale handbag that would meet her needs as a new mother. Louis Dumas, the Executive Chairman of Hermès at the time, designed the Birkin for her in the form of a square and spacious purse with a top flap and room for baby bottles.

Also notable is lot #427, a vintage Rolex two tone Oyster Perpetual wristwatch. It is estimated at $3,000 to $5,000. This manual movement example from 1953 is made from stainless steel. Its blue leather strap, which is not original to the watch but also made by Rolex, is signed and numbered by Rolex and is Swiss made. The watch case measures 34 mm.

Rolex Perpetual wristwatches are nearly a century old in design, having been launched in 1926. This design is considered the first waterproof watch manufactured on a commercial scale and was worn by professional swimmer Mercedes Gleitze, who was the first documented person to swim the Straits of Gibraltar and the first British woman to swim the English Channel. The name of the watch, Oyster, is based on the “waterproof” ocean mollusc of the same name. Today, these legacy watches are treasured for their history and understated prestige.

Elaborate home furnishings from André Leon Talley’s residence also feature prominently in this sale. Lot #292, a circa 1820 American Federal carved giltwood girandole mirror, is estimated at $4,000 to $6,000. This functional and decorative piece has a large convex oblong center mirror surrounded by an eagle on top, two fruit and flower filled cornucopias to the sides, and two floral themed candle holders around the edges. This mirror is one of four outstanding examples in this sale; other home furnishings include tables, chairs, trays, screens, and racks from Talley’s New York home.

And finally, artworks of all sorts from Talley’s collection are well represented in this online auction. Many of the pieces have ties to superstars in the fashion industry. Lot #147, contemporary American artist Bradley Theodore’s stylized portrait of Diana Vreeland, is estimated at $3,000 to $5,000. This framed, mostly blue and black acrylic on canvas was painted in 2014 and is signed and dated on the back. Vreeland was Talley’s fashion friend and mentor; their nearly half-century-long relationship began back in the 1970s.

Bradley Theodore is an up and coming creative. His paintings often include references to popular culture or celebrities and consistently smash auction estimates. In June of 2022, The Crown, the artist’s modern side portrait of Queen Elizabeth, was estimated at $1,200 to $1,800 and sold for $5,300 at Phillips. 

To learn more about the Collection of André Leon Talley and register to bid, visit Christie’s.