A Clothes Call: Augusta Auctions’ End of Summer Elegance Sale

Augusta Auctions of Bellows Falls, VT– an auctioneer specializing in nonprofit institutional deaccessioning as well as vintage couture– is presenting its End of Summer Elegance sale on September 25, 2024. This auction offers 250 sartorial temptations, ranging from 18th-century outfits to late 20th-century formalwear by some of the world’s most respected designers. Of note is a collection of antique day, evening, and party dresses previously owned by the Valentine Museum of Richmond, VA. Here are some stunning highlights from this timelessly fashionable event.

Two 1930s-era garments from the Italian brand Fortuny share top lot status in this September sale. Both have USD 5,000 to $8,000 presale estimates.

The first, lot #249, is a stunning stenciled velvet evening jacket. This draping, belted black silk top is decorated with a gold stenciled reticella lace pattern. It is lined in champagne silk satin and measures 50 inches by 28 inches overall. This elegant example retains its original labels, which read “Mariano Fortuny, Venise” and “Made in Italy, Fortuny Depose.”

The second, lot #250, is a Delphos gown with two belts. This 58-inch long, dark green pleated silk dress features rows of brown Murano glass beads which are decorated with blue and red stripes. The stenciled black silk belts are based on Medieval stylized foliage patterns. The dress is tagged “Fortuny Deposee, Made in Italy.”

Fortuny, which is still in business today and is headquartered in Venice and New York, was founded by Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (Spanish, 1871 – 1949). Fortuny was an artist at heart and had a passion for textiles since childhood. In 1907, he and his wife created the signature Delphos gown, famous for its pleating and glass beading. It was designed to be worn without underwear and based loosely on an ancient Greek aesthetic. Celebrities including Eleonora Duse, Isadora Duncan, Ellen Terry, and Oona Chaplin were pictured in this legacy dress design. Fortuny also invented a unique way to print on velvet and silk fabric using a wooden block press. Today, his production is still very much in demand and noted for its amazing quality and artistic properties.

This sale features a fine collection of century-spanning women’s formal dresses. Lot #128, a long-sleeved, silk organza Geoffrey Beene evening gown, is estimated at $800 to $1,200. This champagne and black sequin-decorated example is from the designer’s 1985 fall collection. The label reads, “Geoffrey Beene, New York” and is inked “1904.” This exact dress was sold in 2019 as lot #194 as part of a three-piece lot of Beene dresses through Hindman’s Property from the Geoffrey Beene Archive sale.

Award-winning designer Geoffrey Beene (1924 – 2004) was born into a family of doctors and was expected to become one as well. He attended medical school for three years, but he then dropped out and moved to California to follow his dream of fashion design. Beene opened his own boutique in New York City in 1963. His career took off in the 1970s when he designed various clothing lines and held licensing agreements for household items, accessories, and toiletries. His clients included Lady Bird Johnson, Pat Nixon, Nancy Reagan, Faye Dunaway, and Glen Close, among many other high-profile individuals.

Antique outfits for horseback riding are also well-represented in this sale. Lot #234, a two-piece black wool riding habit from 1885, is estimated at $1,200 to $1,500.  This broadcloth duo includes a tailored, double-breasted bodice and riding skirt. The shapely top is decorated with large black buttons and a stand-up collar. The skirt is pleated for riding comfort. It is tagged “Mme. Wilson Robes, 42 E. 19th St, New York.” 

Historically, women’s clothing items designed for sidesaddle horseback riding were called riding habits. These debuted around the middle of the 17th century and traditionally included a fitted jacket and blouse, a long flowing skirt, and accessories like flat boots, gloves, a top hat, and a necktie or bow. For the most part, these outfits were distinctly masculine, dark in color, and based on menswear trends of the era. This particular outfit was produced at 42 E. 19th Street in New York. This nine-story building is located in the city’s popular Flatiron District, was built in 1905, and today is a mixed-use structure of ground-level retail shops and 15 apartment residences above.

Wedding dresses, tea gowns, afternoon or day dresses, swimsuits, and vintage to antique men’s clothing round out this sale. Lot #239, a gentleman’s three-piece ribbed silk suit, is estimated at $2,000 to $3,000. It dates from circa 1785 to 1790 and is made from celadon-colored fabric. It includes a frock coat with a standing attached collar, a waistcoat with tabbed pockets and buttons, and a pair of breeches featuring a watch pocket.

For more information on Augusta Auctions’ End of Summer Elegance event on September 25, 2024, please visit Bidsquare. Find more auction world news and previews of upcoming events on Auction Daily.