A Collector’s Guide | Luxe: Boutique Jewels

Our May 29 Luxe: Boutique Jewels sale features a fine selection of signed jewelry including Elsa Peretti and George Schuler for Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Seaman Schepps and more, among an array of period and contemporary jewels.

This diverse collection includes excellent finds for both new and seasoned collectors.

The Longstanding Love for Cartier

Worn by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Kanye West, among others, the Cartier “Love” bracelet is one of the most recognizable luxury items on today’s market. Italian designer, Aldo Cipullo, designed the bracelet in 1969 out of Cartier’s New York workshop. The bold fixed bangle, featuring screw head motifs, was inspired by medieval chastity belts, with love in mind. The ovoid form fits closely to the wrist and is secured by a screw utilizing a screwdriver. The tool, intended to be operated by another, locks the wearer into the piece. A symbol of love and luxury, this timeless bangle has been adored for over five decades. The Unisex design, built with every day wear in mind, makes it a timeless wardrobe staple.

Ancient Icons for Today’s Style

Lot 501 | A twenty-two karat gold cameo ring, Helen Woodhull, $400-600

This high karat gold cameo ring, produced in 1971, beautifully echoes the mythology surrounding the ancient objects that inspired this piece by Helen Woodhull. The New York artist, also known for her designs at Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Georg Jensen, often utilized motifs found in Greek and Roman intaglios and Egyptian amulets. The fascination surrounding ancient motifs began in the 18th century upon the excavation of Pompeii and Herculaneum, prompting a series of revivals that is still relevant today. This same nostalgia can be seen in the coin, cameo and intaglio-set jewelry in today’s fashion. This perfectly nostalgic, but relevant design constructed in 22k gold, makes it a lasting piece

Retro Ruffles and Ribbons

Lot 524 | A fourteen karat gold and diamond ear clip and clip brooch suite, Tiffany & Co., George Schuler, circa 1950, $1,500-2,000

The textured ruffles of this demi-parure, designed by George Schuler for Tiffany & Co. is a lovely example of Retro jewelry. The large expanses of undecorated metal is typical of this period due to limited gemstone supply chains following World War II. Schuler designed a variety of these fluted fans, ribbons and volutes for Tiffany & Co., as well as Cartier. His earrings, stamped PP 2423905 for his patented clips that relieve strain on the ear, are a comfortable fit for unpierced ears. This quintessential Retro form is elevated by the fact that it is a matching set, making it a recognizable and fun addition to a diverse collection.